W7-11: Piazza della Repubblica

W7-11: PIAZZA della REPUBBLICA, Naiaden Fountain, Diocletian Baths, Santa Maria degli Angeli e Martiri

PHOTO 1: Entrance to Santa Maria degli Angeli e Martiri

PHOTO 2: Remains of the former baths inside the church

PHOTO 3: The baths today

PHOTO 4: Mosaic inside the baths: “Know thyself”.

Those who dare to walk to the Naiaden Fountain in the middle of the square find themselves in a former space of the immense Diocletian Baths. This square was laid out at the beginning of the last century and the fountain was the, albeit controversial, highlight of it. Looking to the right, one sees a few luxury hotels. These were built on the former foundations of part of the baths and have retained the half-circle shape.

From there comes the Via Nazionale, which along with Via del Tritone (W7-4), was part of the modern urbanization plans of the new Italian state. The Belgian Archbishop François-Xavier de Merode, a scion of the well-known family of the same name, was during that period chamberlain to Pope Pius IX (whom we will encounter shortly in Santa Maria Maggiore) and from 1860 to 1865 Minister of War of the Papal State. He quickly realized that the land between the station and the center could become important and purchased a large part of it. After the formation of Italy, he sold it at a considerable profit to the new state. He had less success with his Zouaves; he did not win any battles in the war of independence against the Italian army. He is buried in the Teutonic Cemetery in the Vatican (W9-20).

On the other side, the impressive remains of the Baths emerge, although they have undergone significant transformations over the centuries. One of the halls was transformed by Michelangelo into a church, the Santa Maria degli Angeli e Martiri, and around the corner is the entrance to the Museum. It is part of the Museo Nazionale Romano and with a combined ticket, you can also visit Palazzo Altemps (W5-10), Palazzo Massimo alle Terme (W7-12), and the Crypta Balbi (W2-1).

Now, Santa Maria degli Angeli e Martiri is not the only church located within the original baths. The San Bernardo alle Terme is entirely built within a corner tower of that former bathing spot. The church has no windows, but light enters through an opening at the top of the dome. In that sense, the church is comparable to the Pantheon (W5-4). The coffered ceilings of that dome were also inspired by the Pantheon. The church was consecrated in 1598.

Marc Vandenbon