Beautiful Belgian Ride: A Summer in Villers - Part 1

“Making the round about all Villers, pfuuuu, well, you have a lot of work ahead of you!” This is how my old neighbor, who is 88 years old, described this crazy idea! And yet it is an entertaining challenge to draw four BBBs that connect all the Villers of our beautiful Wallonia. Whether near cities or lost in the countryside, there is a Villers for every taste. To kick off this summer series, the province of Liège takes center stage. So let's head to the Villers!

Our very first Villers, equipped with the suffix “lez-Heest,” is just a stone's throw from the E411 at the “Eghezée” exit, a small unit lost among the fields. The word “Villers” probably comes from the Latin noun “villa,” which referred to a farm estate or a wealthy summer residence. This applies to all the Villers we will visit this summer. Heest refers to a beautiful beech tree in the area of the municipality. But to take a drink with the motorcycle colleagues, you will need a bit of patience.

Back to earth

First, we cross some large fields. We are in the green grain storage (and sugar storage) of our country. Characteristic smells emanate from this heavy, fatty, and rich soil, tickling our noses. Ah, the olfactory delights of motorcycling! We reach Leuze and then Eghezée. After this short stretch of about ten kilometers, we can comfortably enjoy a coffee or hot chocolate at the Auberge du Cheval Blanc. It is becoming increasingly rare to enjoy the bistros, bakeries, bookstores, or all those little shops that have brought our villages to life from morning till night. We quickly leave the main road to use the N924. It leads us through the vast fields of Hesbaye. As the green of our land has already taken good hold, we cross the unit of Wasseige. The tempting desire to stop at Epi d'Or to enjoy sweet treats we will resist this time and promise ourselves to return soon.

Villers-le Peuplier awaits us. Formerly called Villers-devant-Hannut, which is geographically correct, the name of this locality appears in a grimoire, but written as “Villers-le-Popliir.” In old Dutch, “popliir” means poplar. We reach the N64 for some quickly covered kilometers. Some pretty roads lead us to Vieux Waleffe and Vaux-et-Borset. How built up all these regions are! More and more residential neighborhoods, almost identical “turnkey” villas springing up like mushrooms. Concrete is devouring the landscape! We cross the E42, where cars speed by at high speed. We enjoy a new “Villers,” this time Bouillet. This Villers is said to have carried its suffix since the 16th century. Bouillet means “watering hole.” The surrounding soils were (and are) very moist and dotted with numerous ponds.

Dispute of the bell towers

We continue north on friendly roads, crossing Verlaine, Haneffe, and Donceel. We travel about ten kilometers on the N637 and the N61: two examples of our famous “concrete slab” surfaces. Let's just keep going! Two more Villers are waiting for us. First, Villers l’Evêque, whose name comes from Charles d’Oultremont, the prince-bishop of Liège, who had a new staircase (courthouse) built in this Villers. We are in the year 1764, and Charles d’Oultremont thus defuses a conflict between the Bailli of Hesbaye (a certain Lesoyne, who demanded a courthouse before his house) and the Villersois. Ah, the village rivalries, this theme of the Villers takes us back to a bygone era. While now it is regions getting into disputes, back then it was between the different bell towers! A few gas pedals later, we traverse Villers-Saint-Siméon. Here we stand at the crossroads of two ancient Roman roads. The first is today’s Brunehaut Road, which we cross. It connected France with Germany. The second is the Rue de Tige, which we take. It served as a connection between Amay, Visé, and Maastricht. Excavations at an old Roman burial mound (in the locality called “the grave”) revealed the site of a large Roman villa.

Simply Visé!

After the village of Hermée, we discover Oupeye and slide down to the Maas. The view becomes clearer. On the left, the large lock gate of Lanaye can be seen. A double waterway crosses the landscape before us. Some small roads gently lead us to the Albert Canal. This highway for inland ships is monumental. Built in 1930 to accommodate boats weighing 2000 tons, the Albert Canal was expanded in 1997 to receive ships weighing 9000 tons, which navigate the 130 km between the autonomous port of Liège and the port of Antwerp, Scaldis basin, and the North Sea. Just a bit further, we cross the Maas in Hermalle-sous-Argenteau. We use Visé to recharge. On the Reine Astrid square, numerous restaurants welcome you warmly. After enjoying a local specialty (see box), we return to Hermalle. We are at a turning point in this tour. While the landscapes and roads until now had only limited tourist interest, the second part that we begin consists of “motorcycle roads.” First with the magnificent ascent of Richelle, which leads us to a green plateau.

We head back to Dalhem. The old town and its ruins are a feast for the eyes. The streets are lined with pretty houses from the 17th and 18th centuries. The curves await us towards the abbey of Val-Dieu. The entire region is currently affected by numerous roadworks. But let's not spit in soup. We'll have to be patient to benefit from a brand-new surface. It’s time for the region to listen to road users! We, the taxpayers, have a right to safe asphalt, not deadly traps. We just hope that this new surface is of good quality and can withstand the test of time. We leave the abbey of Val-Dieu behind for the pretty village of Neufchâteau. The landscapes of the Herve land are beautiful. Over hills and valleys, one enjoys the characteristic hedge landscapes of the region, as if the area were taking on French traits. To crown it all, many meadows are occupied by peacefully grazing sheep. As we pass through, they rarely lift their heads and hardly bleat. One loves it. We glide through these meadows to reach Battice. A 3 km transition on the N3 allows us to merge back into wonderful roads. Fun on two wheels toward Soumagne. Although housing development has been strong since the 1980s, Soumagne remains pleasant.

Direction Vesdre

We quickly travel to Nessonvaux, which preserves the memory of the Imperia car factory. Yes, beautiful cars were produced in Wallonia too! It feels good to navigate these endless curves. We continue at the same rhythm, following the splendid meanders of the Vesdre. We take the long curves at high speed, letting the valves sing. We reach the pretty town of Trooz. The friendly Auto-Retro Museum houses about a hundred classic cars in competition condition: a discovery. We regain height towards Gomzée, to pass under the E25. From Dolembreux, a beautiful winding descent leads us to Esneux. We cross the Ourthe to enjoy Hout-Si-Plout (which means “where it rains” in Walloon).

Coming from the forest, we reach the small village of Limont before landing in Villers-aux-Tours. This municipality was a lordship in the Middle Ages, belonging to the Duchy of Limburg (named after the nearby place Verviers, having nothing to do with the eponymous Flemish province!). This lordship was part of the seven “lordships beyond the forests,” which were all Limburg enclaves in the Principality of Liège. We head west to Nandrin. We are still on roads with nice qualities for motorcycles. Just a few more turns to reach our 7th and final Villers for today: Villers-le-Temple. Its name comes from an old commandery of the Knights Templar. While the castle of the commandery, founded by Gérard de Villers (not to be confused with the author of the SAS!), is the historical heart, we will have the last drink at the Café des Sports a few meters below the church. To return to your home, Huy and the E25 are nearby. Otherwise, the great road of Condroz will take you straight to the heart of Liège. Safe travels and enjoy the Villers!

The Yamaha FZ8 Naked

With its stocky and muscular roadster look, this Yam seems made for you to stretch your arms out! Beneath its new design featuring the 50th anniversary logo of the brand's participation in the world championship, this motorcycle hides its strengths well with a smooth engine up to 3500 rpm, lively up to 6500, and furious beyond that. A slightly forward-leaning riding position, legs drawn in, and a complete lack of protection characterize this roadster. Excellent braking performance, equipped with ABS, adds extra confidence. After 14 hours on the road exploring this BBB, the seat has “pampered” our behinds, and the lack of protection has generated a decent dose of fatigue over the 600 kilometers traveled. But this roadster is probably not ideal for this exercise. Agility and precision in curves are flawless, except for a turning radius that is unsuitable for repeated turns. Daily use is conceivable if one accepts a backpack for personal belongings. The mini seat for the passenger and the absence of a handle only allow the duo to be hinted at in case of emergency. At €9,590, this FZ8 Naked is more suited for short outings with friends rather than longer rides...

Gourmet stops

- The Auberge du Cheval Blanc: a pleasant environment, an easy parking for motorcycles, but the service sometimes leaves much to be desired. The Auberge du Cheval Blanc, 1 Route d'Andenne, 5310 Eghezée. Tel.: 081/81.30.35

- Chez Adam: a place to recommend. Friendly welcome and service, delicious regional dishes, characterful decoration: everything we love! We recommend the goose, similar to that of Visé, an essential and delicious specialty of the city. Chez Adam, 12 Place Reine Astrid, 4600 Visé. Tel.: 04/379.89.19 www.chezadam.be

- Café des Sports: let's keep the village cafés alive! A nice place for the “last” drink before returning. Café des Sports, rue de la Place, 4550 Villers-le-Temple.