The Sad Hill Ride

A Journey Through Time: From Ghostly Railway Tracks to the Spirit of the Spaghetti Western

This motorcycle route through the Spanish province of Burgos proves that you don’t have to travel thousands of kilometres to find yourself in a completely different world. Over just 47 kilometres, you’ll ride through a landscape steeped in history, nostalgic film sets and impressive natural scenery.

The adventure begins as soon as you set off. As you start the engine and release the clutch, you leave the main roads behind and enter the quiet Castilian countryside. The roads here are made for motorcyclists: open, peaceful and surrounded by rolling hills that invite you to enjoy the sweep of the curves.

After thirty kilometres, you’ll arrive at the first major stop, an absolute dream location for fans of urban exploring. The abandoned Estación de Salas de los Infantes exudes pure nostalgia. The rusty tracks of the legendary, never fully completed Santander–Mediterranean railway line still lie here. As you park your motorcycle among the overgrown rails and derelict railway buildings, you can feel the history of a major industrial project that came to an abrupt halt here. It’s the perfect place for a short walk and a few gritty industrial photos.

From the station, the road winds uphill towards the rugged Arlanza Valley. Around kilometre 45, you’ll reach the Monument En Memoria de Félix Rodríguez de la Fuente. This lookout honours Spain’s most legendary wildlife filmmaker and conservationist, who fought to protect wolves and birds of prey in this region. As you take in the sweeping views across the valley, there’s a good chance you’ll spot the majestic vultures this area is known for soaring high overhead.

Just one kilometre farther on, you’ll suddenly ride onto a legendary film set. This is Sad Hill Cemetery, the fictional graveyard built by the Spanish army in 1966 for the iconic final scene of the Western classic The Good, the Bad and the Ugly. Designed by Italian architect Carlo Simi, this impressive site consists of a huge circular plaza of rough stone where Clint Eastwood fought his ultimate duel. Surrounding it are no fewer than 5,000 simple wooden crosses. The contrast between the motorcycles and this historic film location is fantastic, and the valley’s mystical atmosphere is sure to stay with you for a long time.

After this cinematic experience comes the short final stretch of the route. The hills gradually give way to the historic, peaceful village of Santo Domingo de Silos. At Hotel Santo Domingo de Silos, you can finally put your motorcycle on its kickstand. This rustic endpoint, known for its centuries-old Benedictine monastery and Gregorian chants, offers the ideal setting to savour the experience. Over a hearty Castilian meal and a good glass of local wine, you can look back on a short but intense ride packed with culture, history and exhilarating bends.