Beautiful Belgian Tour: A Summer in Villers - Part 3

From Ath to Mont-Saint-Guibert, we set out to discover seven new Villers. Through Hainaut, which we love, and Walloon Brabant, which we think we know, a technical and tourist route awaits us. Also this August, we are all in Villers!

This walk has a festive flair. On August 11th and 12th, all Villers will celebrate in Villers-lez-Heest, near Namur, which was visited as the first Villers during our summer series. The starting point of our walk, the good town of Ath, is also celebrating. The fourth weekend of August is sacred for the Athois: The Ducasse is in full swing, and the whole region shines with good cheer. A mood like no other and sociable drinking sprees stretch late into the night. On this early morning of exploration, there is none of that; some scouts are making a scavenger hunt game in the town. The Grand'Place will be our meeting point. Between the magnificent 17th-century town hall and the "Art Nouveau" ballroom, the place remains as inviting as ever. The road awaits us, and with a few gas passes, we quickly free ourselves from the city center to reach Villers-Saint-Amand. This peaceful village is part of the beauties that the land of Ath holds. Our second Villers is not far away. Villers-Notre-Dame, whose origins date back to 948, was divided between the Abbey of Ghislenghien and the family de Ligne. In the church, a Marian pilgrimage takes place on Pentecost Mondays.

Filming Location

We continue our walk towards Ormeignies. The triangular square is pleasant. Take a look in the corner at the old cart… This cart smells of the Wild West! Slightly downhill, take a leap to the last ruin of the castle of the de Rouillé family. The building was erected in the 18th century, rebuilt in 1866, then sold in 1934 and demolished. Only a three-story wall section remains, amid wild grass. Truly astonishing, the place resembles a forgotten film set at the end of a shooting period. We enjoy driving on small roads that sway between gentle rises. From time to time we cross the Dendre. Just before Tongres-Saint-Martin, we cross a magnificent lifting bridge that takes us over the waterway. We bypass the Chièvres military airfield from the south. Surrounded by more or less "aggressive" fences, the place doesn't invite exploration of what lies near the runways. Let's just let our way continue. Caution when crossing the very large N56, as vehicles race by at full speed. We reach Cambron-Casteau. The village would have remained anonymous if Pairi Daisa (formerly Paradisio) had not been founded on the ruins of the former Cistercian abbey, founded in the 12th century by Saint-Bernard. We will only pass by; the parking lot filled with dozens of tour buses is not to our taste. And then, Pari Daisa mainly appeals to children (and those who remain children). Let's let the crowd pursue their animal discoveries and enjoy the hidden treasures of the region. The road winds gently to Neufvilles. The etymology of the village name approaches our summer theme: from Latin "nova villa," meaning new agricultural land. We pass the indispensable workshop of our friend Etienne Petre (see box) before entering Neufvilles. In the village, we turn directly right towards Thieusies. After some pretty meadows, we reach the heart of this last locality. The village is inviting, and the old town hall has a crazy charm, with a huge cross on the side. All this kindly reminds us of Don Camillo and Peppone. Hainaut truly offers many possibilities for filmmakers!

Changing Scenery

The landscapes begin to change. Gliding under the E42, we move from an agricultural field to a post-industrial ruin trying to reinvent itself. We are at the edge of the Canal du Centre. Ville-sur-Haine illustrates our concern. The old house of the bridge keeper invites nostalgia, but the economic activities seem to be languishing around. Shortly after Havré, we reach Villers-Saint-Ghislain. A gift from Godefroid of Lorraine to the abbey of Saint-Ghislain in 965, this Villers is appended with the suffix "Saint-Ghislain", as the abbey owned it exclusively. On a wall of the church, an old sign shows a festival of all Villers on... August 6th, 1989! We arrive 23 years too late… However, on August 11th and 12th, 2012, head to Villers-lez-Heest, we say it again! Heading towards Harmignies, the view opens up, and we find large fields. Some beautiful villages line up: Vellereille-le-Sec, Estinnes-au-Mont, Estinnes-au-Val, before crossing the thoroughfare N90 and reaching Maurage. Just a few more rounds and we come into sight of lift number 4. This witness of today’s forgotten shipping reveals its steel and stone undercarriage. We pass beneath the structure to cross Thieu. No matter where you are, the huge steel monster that is the Strépy-Thieu lift (117 meters high, after all!) makes you feel small. Inaugurated in 2002, it compensates for the 73 m height difference of the four old boat lifts.

Natural Backdrops

Here is a lovely little town, unjustly unknown. Le Roeulx offers us its inviting streets and its warm atmosphere. Small roads lead us past Mignault. An unusual monument for the fallen hides at a street corner. With a cannon and runic inscriptions (used by the Nazis due to the Germanic origin of this alphabet), it gives the place a strange atmosphere. After a brief detour to Ecaussines, where we arrive too late for the famous "Marriage Pastry" on Pentecost Monday (or as Julos Beaucarne, who was born there, says: "all the single people in the world are invited, and even the married ones, we’re not stingy here!") we happily drive on pretty winding roads. The hills emerge a bit more distinctly, and in the distance, the inclined tower of Ronquières rises like a lighthouse for the entire region. We head towards Henripont, then Ronquières. On the bridge spanning the Canal Bruxelles-Charleroi, the entire mass of this monumental construction spreads out to your right, with the horizon as a line, the building housing the entire machine, and the tower dominating the site. A few more curves and we reach a little road by the old canal. It's a piece of paradise we discover. An out-of-use lock serves to regulate the water flow using a lovely dam. The vegetation has regained some of its influence. A mandatory pause to enjoy the place! Before we continue in a fairytale atmosphere, we cross the Samme, which flows cheerfully, almost wildly. A lost place, forgotten by the devastating hand of man... Here, one begins to dream of a new balance between humanity and the environment. A few kilometers of small roads await us. Here too, one could be in the deep Ardennes. And yet, we are only about twenty kilometers from Brussels. However, be cautious, for the roadway is sometimes in very poor condition. At Sart-à-Rèves, we take a new enjoyable break. The cheese with extraordinary flavor qualities can easily be transported in your pockets, luggage, and tank bags. Your family and friends will be grateful. If you have the desire to share, because these delights made from cow's milk are irresistible! We continue towards Les Bons Villers and Villers-Perwin. We are at the border of Walloon Brabant. In the center of the village, the roundabout hosts old agricultural tools. Town planners of all kinds should take inspiration from this to decorate some of the numerous roundabouts that bloom all over our Wallonia a little more. A few more gas passes and we reach the most famous Villers in Belgium: Villers-la-Ville! Whether through the ruins of its abbey or the numerous performances held there, ask anyone to name a Villers, and that is the first name that comes to their mind. We take a look at the old wall sections of the abbey before delving into the Bois d'Hé.

Last Backdrop for Today

The end of this walk is very near. One last Villers for today awaits us: Hévillers has clung to the slope and presents itself with the appearance of a Vosges village, surrounded by its church. We just need to reach the center of Mont-Saint-Guibert, close by, to enjoy the last drink with friends and already think about our final leg of the Villers next month. For the return trip, the N25 or E411 are not far. Safe travels, good return, and good Villers!

Gourmet Stops

- In Ath, when we’ve stopped at the tavern "Le Mercier" next to the town hall, the Grand-Place offers numerous facilities. You will have the dilemma of choice!

- The Bercha: In a pleasant setting (terrace in the backyard when the weather is nice), you will discover classic French cuisine with regional products. We tried a veal steak with cheese and Maredsous beer: a delight. For 18 € per piece, you won’t regret it. Do note, during the week, a daily menu with soup and main course is offered at 10 €. Enough to satisfy all budgets. The Bercha, 763 route de Mons, 7130 Bray (Binche). Tel.: 064/36.91.07 www.lebercha.be.

- Farm Lambert: Cow milk cheese that will take you back! With nettles, herbs, natural: just the good stuff. Farm Lambert, 39 rue Sart-Bas, 6210 Rèves. Tel.: 071/84.50.95.

- Mont-Saint-Guibert: La Taverne is a village café with a pleasant atmosphere for the last drink among friends. According to our information, a themed event is offered every first Saturday of the month. La Taverne, 22 Grand’Place, 1435 Mont-Saint-Guibert. Tel: 010/65.62.28.