the trail montanara

Welcome to the track Montanara, that shall lead you from the sunny beaches and the tumultuous summer, right into the hearth of the peaceful, hilly istrian inland. We start from Umag ? the town that, apart for its incandescent Riviera, vaunts a rich historical heritage and a unique event ? the festival of the traditional organ (Organum Histriae). Situated on a peninsula, founded in the transitional period from late antiquity into the early middle age, with the historic centre that loudly speaks with the spirit of the ancient Venice, Umag today is the most important touristic resort of the north-western Istria which name has been particularly promoted across Europe and the entire world thanks to a top-level sports event ? the international ATP tennis tournament ?Croatia Open?. Except for the fact that, with its famous lover?s lighthouse, it is considered the westernmost point of Croatia, the nearby Savudrija - once amongst the most important ancient harbours in the northern Adriatic, it is known for a glorious naval battle between the Venetians and the fleet lead by Oton, son of the glorious king Frederich Barbarossa that took place there in the year 1177. According to a legend, the toponym of Savudrija comes from Salvo-re which, if translated means ??the salvation of the king?? whereas, after the defeat on the sea, the son of the glorious Barbarossa escaping tried to hide in a nearby cistern.

Ride further towards the picturesque stone houses and istrian churches, towards the belfry of the church of St Mary and towards Plovanija, through which the road leads until Kaštel ? a small settlement on the top of the hill that dominates the valley of Dragonja. If you continue straight further through Kremenje until Šterna ? a village named after a big local cistern (on local dialect ? Šterna) situated on the large plateau intersected by water flows. To Šterna, actually named after the unfailing water source which charges six ditches in the valley northern from the St. Michael church, is related a legend which tells that the top of its hill deeply in it already hides the buried Golden veal.

Now, you are deeply immerged in the istrian inland, and you find yourself in front of a magnificent medieval town called Oprtalj, on top of the following hill. With unchanged urban medieval disposition, the narrow streets, the shops, the beautiful Venetian palaces, portals and covered passages, and particularly the unique view to the Istrian peninsula from the town loggia, according to many the most beautiful of Istria. Oprtalj is an authentic gem of the inner land that is worth to be visited, before the road leads through Livade until the only and magical Motovun. A monumental city, lately particularly famous for the international film festival, founded on the top of a hill with an altitude of 277 meters above the sea level, represents the authentic image of the medieval istrian town surrounded by a series of walls. The view from the walls comprises numberless surrounding vineyards and especially the known forest-park of Motovun, rich of truffles. Starting from the entrance door and the town?s loggia, until the main square with St Stephen?s church with the belfry-tower, and the paved streets, Motovun is rightfully considered one of the most beautiful towns of Istria. Descending further, the road leads through the nearby Karojba until Višnjan, surrounded by vineyards. Famous for its observatory that, after having with its telescopes found over 1400 small planets of the Solar System, is included amongst the 5 world?s most important observatories, Višnjan is really a town friend of the stars.

Willing of new emotions, ride further through Kaštelir until Vižinada ? the birth town of the famous ballet dancer Carlotta Grisi, who danced and with her performances conquered all the most important European stages of the XIX century. Once ruled by the Venetian family Grimani whose palace was on the place of the today?s elementary school, with a beautiful main square and two public cisterns in the centre, Vižinada is a place with an unforgettable view to Motovun and to the valley of the river Mirna. If you ride further, through Ponte Porton and Bijele Zemlje, you?ll reach Buje, noticeable from far away for its two belfries. And right here finishes your little odyssey, considering that, because of its medieval walls and the castle built on an altitude of 222 meters, in the past Buje was known as ??the Guardian of Istria??. And that is the last town that you shall meet before the road leads you back to Umag, where your adventure just begun.