This four-day journey takes you through one of the most surprising border regions of Europe: from the Pajottenland in Belgium deep into the Thiérache in northern France. You cross rolling landscapes, follow ancient Roman roads, and discover forgotten villages, fortified churches, and historical sites that each reveal new stories.

Day 1 – From Brussels to Solre-le-Château

We start just outside Brussels and wind through the Pajottenland, where the hills and hollow roads lead us towards Halle and the Forest of La Houssière. This woodland is known for its tranquil beauty, but it also bears a heavier history: it was once the backdrop for infamous actions by the Bende van Nijvel.

Further on, we pass the quarries of Ecaussinnes, where the famous Petit Granit is quarried – a hard stone we know from countless doorsteps and sinks in old Belgian houses. South of Soignies, we join a perfectly straight road heading towards Mons. This seems to be an ordinary country road, but in reality, we are following a stretch of the ancient Roman road from Bavay to Asse, a unique piece of history that stretches almost endlessly before us.

In Mons/Bergen, we make our first stop. A cup of coffee at the beautiful Grand Place works wonders, while the futuristic train station designed by Santiago Calatrava catches our attention. Those with more time can visit the Mundaneum or discover Van Gogh's house just outside Mons.

After that, the route bends south. Through the small valley of the Trouille, we cross the border, briefly follow the Sambre, and reach the Thiérache. In Solre-le-Château, the tilted church tower immediately stands out, surrounded by a funny legend. This small town offers a cozy stop and serves as our first overnight stay.

Day 2 – Bocage Landscapes and Fortified Churches

Today, we follow the edge of the “Boot of Hainaut.” Our first stop is the impressive quarry Wallers-en-Fagne, where the famous pierre bleue is harvested. Then we drive through the Bois de Macon: a dense leafy green cathedral that suddenly opens up to a rolling landscape with a striking difference. Here, you can clearly see the contrast between France and Belgium: on the French side, bocage landscapes with small parcels surrounded by hedges and woodbanks dominate, while those typically Belgian structures have largely disappeared since the scale-up in agriculture.

Along the way, we stumble upon a surprising film set: here, the border comedy Rien à déclarer by Dany Boon was filmed, which vividly recalls the time when border posts disappeared in 1993 with the advent of the European single market.

The region also bursts with unique heritage: the fortified churches of the Thiérache. These robust brick structures served for centuries as a refuge for the population in times of danger. Aubenton and especially Parfondeval, officially crowned as one of the most beautiful villages in France, catch the eye. The village square, the fortified church, and even the Protestant church referencing the history of the Huguenots make a deep impression.

However, the absolute highlight today is the Familistère de Guise. This 19th-century complex was a progressive utopian living community for workers, built by industrialist Jean-Baptiste Godin. Architecture, social history, and idealism merge here into an exceptional monument.

In the evening, we seek a quiet place to stay in the region, in an area that notably has very little hospitality left. Inns and village cafés are rare, which has to do with aging and the poor road network that the Thiérache shows.

Day 3 – Great Forests and Traces of War

The third day begins in the vast Forest of Mormal, an ancient area that remained largely forested as it served as a hunting and lumber area. In the midst of the greenery, you can enjoy surprisingly good food at the charming Auberge du Croisil.

Not much later we come across the German soldiers' cemetery of Frasnoy, where some German-Jewish soldiers from World War I are also buried – a quiet place that invites reflection.

The journey continues to Valenciennes, but even more attractive is the nearby Saint-Amand-les-Eaux, with its impressive abbey tower that rises like a beacon above the region. Then we cross the border again in Rongy, at the very spot where the Brigade Piron liberated France as the first Belgian unit on September 3, 1944. A place that vividly recalls the vibes of the liberation days.

We end the day with a cozy overnight stay just past the border.

Day 4 – Tournai, Flemish Ardennes and back to the Pajottenland

The last day is dedicated to history, stone, and legends. Tournai is our first stop: a city full of layers. Here, the Frankish king Clovis grew up, and his father Childeric I was buried here. The city was famous for its tapestry weaving art and its Tournai limestone, which brought wealth together with the River Scheldt. Add to that the five Romanesque towers of the cathedral – UNESCO World Heritage – and you have an absolute must-see.

We then head north over the witness hills of the Flemish Ardennes, famous from cycling classics. In Ronse, we discover the St. Hermes Basilica and enjoy a drink at café Harmonie, a place with an authentic Volkscafé atmosphere.

One last surprising winding piece takes us through the witch village of Ellezelles, where in 1610 five women were burned for witchcraft. Then we drive to Lessen, where the old porphyry quarry tells us that we are standing on the solidified lava of a volcanic pipe.

Through the Dender Valley, we return to the Pajottenland and conclude this four-day exploration, enriched with stories, landscapes, and moments that make the border region between Belgium and France an unforgettable journey of discovery.