Beautiful Belgian Walk: 150km between Nivelles and Perwez

The Brabant Walloon is increasingly resembling a suburb of the capital. But if you look closely, it's possible to find – for how much longer? – scenic routes winding between meadows and woods or following the babbling course of a wandering river. A very pleasant program for an end-of-season stroll.

As soon as Brabant Walloon is mentioned, clichés rush to the forefront: in the "Béwé", everyone would be wealthy, arrogant and would have a large Audi or BMW in the garage of their €1,000,000 villa. The reality is obviously a bit different, even though on the roads of the tenth province – born in 1995 from the split of the province of Brabant, now divided between Brabant Walloon and Brabant Flemish – the concentration of large SUVs driven by very confident little ladies is probably greater than the national average… Brabant Walloon actually has many faces: in the Nivelles region, to the west, the atmosphere resembles that of nearby Hainaut, while in the east, around Jodoigne, more rural landscapes can be found. In between, the vast urban areas formed by Wavre and Ottignies-LLN keep expanding, to the point that finding “motorcycle” roads that are not too busy is almost an impossible mission…

Departure from the Aclots district

The meeting point was set at the Grand-Place of Nivelles, at the foot of the famous Collegiate Church of Saint Gertrude. The Grand-Place has now become a semi-pedestrian area, and navigating it by motorcycle or car requires good knowledge of the area. If you're not familiar, just remember that you need to leave the Grand-Place by taking the Rue de Saintes, where our road book begins. Via the Boulevard de la Dodaine and the Nivelles-South motel, we join the road to Ronquières, which is pleasantly winding but not always well-maintained… In Ronquières, the famous inclined plane, which has dominated the landscape since 1968, is still there, as is the Old Canal, along which it's always nice to wander on foot or by bike. But since you’re on a motorcycle, you would have already headed north along the road that runs alongside the canal towards Fauquez. After crossing the metal bridge, the site of the former Fauquez Glassworks is revealed. It still bears the mark of its owner Arthur Brancart, who had created here workers' housing, a dispensary, a school, a grocery store, etc. A sort of "ideal community" that included a cinema (the building is still there and bears the motto "work well, have fun"… a whole era!), as well as a chapel (see box).

After this "off-topic" detour – Fauquez falls under the municipality of Braine-le-Comte, in Hainaut province – it's back towards Brabant Walloon and Ittre, where the monument indicating the geographical center has not disappeared, although the center of Belgium is now located at Nil-Saint-Vincent, between Wavre and Namur…

We continue towards Haut-Ittre via a very winding road – watch out for the numerous hidden bends – and generous in elevation. At the center of Lillois, we turn right towards Promelles and arrive at Loupoigne, a village still oriented towards agriculture, then Houtain-le-Val. A few straight kilometers near the Baisy-Thy ULM base, followed by a bit of N5, bring us to the junction leading to Villers-la-Ville. No, we won't talk about the Abbey and its ruins, nor the Triple Villers to be tasted at the Chalet de la Forêt! The goal of this BBB is to make you discover Brabant Walloon differently, so we purposely avoided the great classics to favor less frequented places, like the charming little chapel of Try-au-Chêne, for example, along the road leading to Bousval.

Little piece of England

After crossing Genappe, our itinerary heads north towards Glabais, where the road leading to Maransart is a delight. Hilly and favoring smooth curves, it gives the impression, for a few kilometers, of riding in the English countryside. Let's enjoy it, for upon arriving in Lasne, the atmosphere changes completely. Lasne, which is among the richest municipalities in Belgium, has become a "chic" suburb of Brussels and smells much more of money (which, as we know, has no smell…) than of manure! In this somewhat fakey environment, it's really a miracle that Renipont-Plage has survived, a pond set up for swimming, as cherished as it was 70 or 80 years ago! Totally anachronistic but far from unpleasant in the beautiful season. By Chapelle-Saint-Lambert, we then reach the heights of Lasne, near the Renival square and the winding road of Beaumont leading to the small hamlet of the same name. We are now on the plateau, and Céroux-Mousty is very close. The village of Céroux has a pleasant triangular square, lined with trees, where hot air balloons often take off in the late afternoon during warm summer days… The old town hall has been transformed into a café-restaurant, but the places were closed for annual leave during our visit (which unfortunately was not indicated on the establishment's website…). We had planned to grab a bite here, but we were left disappointed… We then quickly took the N25, after crossing Court-Saint-Etienne, in order to swiftly move past the urban area of Wavre and Ottignies-Louvain-la-Neuve, which now almost form a single entity.

Route of the Six Valleys

After crossing the famous (but dangerous) roundabout known as "Corroy", we indeed arrive at... Corroy-le-Grand (not to be confused with Corroy-le-Château, between Gembloux and Sombreffe). We temporarily take the "Route of the Six Valleys," a tourist route that leads to the discovery of this corner of Brabant Walloon. The valley we are following is that of the Train. Between Corroy and Gistoux, there used to be many watercress beds. But today, it would be the sugar pie that attracts food lovers to the area! Gistoux, somewhat like Lasne but to a lesser extent, has lost much of its rural character, as evidenced by the many trendy boutiques and more or less fashionable restaurants. The latter are, however, welcome for hungry motorcyclists like us…

Brabantian Hesbaye

After a tasty and unpretentious meal at the Café de la Poste, we set our sights on broader expanses, those of the vast plains of Brabantian Hesbaye, a natural extension of the vast areas of Namur and Liège Hesbaye. But before that, we must pass through Bonlez. The road leading there from Gistoux is under construction, which forces us to take a detour through Dion-Valmont. A tiny detour that will reward us with a beautiful descent into Bonlez. We closely follow the Train, via Morsain, before reaching Grez-Doiceau. The center of the village remains quite charming and friendly, with, in particular, a square where it's nice to stop… But not for too long, as we still have a few miles to go. The direction is now Jodoigne, but through the back roads! Crossing the Bois de Beaussart is a pleasure, with some beautiful fast and enjoyable stretches. At the height of the Beauvechain airbase – created by the Germans during World War II – we veer towards Namur but only for a little over a kilometer. Just enough time to pass by the orchards of the Chise (apples, pears…) and leave the main road towards Happeau, by a small road in fairly poor condition, narrow and gravelly. But the countryside is very pretty…

Before reaching Jodoigne, always dominated by its famous helical bell tower, don't miss the detour through Mélin, ranked among the most beautiful villages in Wallonia. While the arrival in the village is somewhat discouraging with many recent and characterless constructions, the center is a true postcard scene, with its Gobertange stone houses and its flowered façades. Jodoigne is now just a few kilometers away. This small town has remained quite provincial: nothing compared to Wavre or Waterloo, for example… And the locality has nothing sprawling about it, surrounded by villages that have remained… villages! But watch out for speed cameras: the entity of Jodoigne turns out to be one of the richest in this respect in the province of Brabant Walloon! Most of them are signposted, but the empty "money-making boxes" are rare. A word to the wise…

At the Limit

Our itinerary continues towards the southeast and passes through Huppaye and Hédenge, where the pretty Saint-Feuillen chapel, built on a hill, overlooks the village. Its origins date back to the 14th or 15th century. The stout tower likely originally played a military role… Today, the places breath calm and serenity. So, we indulge in a little restorative nap in the garden surrounding the chapel. Carpe diem! Rejuvenated, we resume the road through Autre-Eglise, before making a small incursion into Namur territory, towards Taviers and Noville-sur-Mehaigne. Until 1976, the year of the municipal mergers in Belgium, the latter locality belonged to the Province of Brabant. Nowadays, it has been integrated into the entity of Eghezée, in Namur province. The boundary between the two provinces here is marked by the ancient Roman road Bavay-Maastricht, along which tumuli (singular: tumulus), meaning notable graves dating back to the Gallo-Roman era, can still be seen. On your right, after Noville, you'll spot the so-called "Hottomont" tomb (see box) that gave its name to the village of Grand-Rosières-Hottomont. Our wander is now coming to an end: Perwez, sometimes called "Perwez-le-Marché" or "Perwez-en-Brabant" (to avoid confusion with Perwez in Namur province, next to Ohey) is nearby. You've certainly earned a "last drink before the road" there, before heading home, possibly via the E411 that runs just a few kilometers away. Safe travels and always be cautious!

Thanks to Sluse Motos, in Tilff, and MV Agusta for the preparation of the Turismo Veloce.

Gourmet Stops

- Early risers seem scarce in the Cité des Aclots: at 9:30, most cafés and bistros in the Grand-Place of Nivelles have their doors closed. Only the café "La Bourse" (which regularly hosts concerts) was open during our visit. Good welcome, relaxed atmosphere and diligent service. What more could you ask for a morning coffee? Parking possible for 3 or 4 motorcycles, a few meters away, on the sidewalk of the roundabout leading to Rue de Saintes…

Café La Bourse, rue de Namur, 1 in 1400 Nivelles. Tel.: 0477/09.98.97.

- In Gistoux, the Café de la Poste is a good address offering a lunch from 11:30 to 14:00 for €19 and a daily special for €12. Pleasant setting, good quality cuisine, and friendly service. Plus, it’s just in front of Pâtisserie Desomer, the go-to place for pie lovers: fruits, rice, cheese and, above all, sugar. A must… but quite tricky to carry back on a motorcycle! The sugar pie that has "sweated" in the top case onto your spare gloves and your brand-new sweater is a classic best avoided… To return to Café de la Poste, it does have one downside: it's closed on Saturdays and Sundays! But fortunately, there’s no shortage of eating places in Gistoux, on the chaussée de Huy, or in Grez-Doiceau where the institution that is Brasserie Edouard remains a must… open 7 days a week!

Café de la Poste, 243 chaussée de Huy at 1325 Chaumont-Gistoux. Tel.: 010/68.82.42, www.cafedelaposte.be.

Travel Journal

- The Glass Chapel: it was in 1915 that a certain Arthur Brancart acquired the Fauquez Glassworks. A "social" boss, he cared about the living conditions of his staff: free housing, a purchasing cooperative ensuring the lowest prices in the region, kindergarten and primary school, a cinema room, a dispensary, etc. In 1930, he equipped the village of Fauquez with a chapel, built mostly of marbrite, a substitute for marble made from opacified glass tinted in the mass. Arthur Brancart had this chapel built for his workers but also to showcase his products. Indeed, the marbrite dresses the building from floor to ceiling. The 19 stained glass windows were made at the Fauquez Glassworks. After hosting a charming creperie, which seems to have disappeared without notice, the place has become a performance space but also houses a small museum presenting various glass objects.

The Glass Chapel, rue Arthur Brancart, 100 in 7090 Braine-le-Comte. Tel.: 067/64.88.93, www.chapelledeverre.be.

- The former center of Belgium, in Ittre: before 1919, it was in this small village in western Brabant Walloon that the geographical center of Belgium was located, as the monument in the square testifies. Since the Treaty of Versailles and the integration of the cantons of Eupen, Sankt-Vith, and Malmédy into the country, the center of Belgium has shifted to Nil-Saint-Vincent in the commune of Walhain-Saint-Paul. See regarding this the BBB "Rush to the East," published in our April edition.

- The Chapel of Try-au-Chêne, in Bousval: this small chapel built in 1608 was nestled amidst fields, sheltered under a large tree (which was not an oak…) which was destroyed by a storm in 2010. A new tree, still quite young, has succeeded it since 2012. No grandiloquent architecture or art treasures here, just the serenity of the places, miraculously preserved in this rapidly urbanizing Brabant Walloon. The word "Try" in Walloon means a pasture or a communal fallow, a wasteland, or uncultivated land. Once in bare bricks, the chapel has recently been painted white.

- Renipont-Plage: an incredible place that suddenly takes you 70 years back, at least! Here, the Lasne feeds a large pond where swimming is possible in the beautiful season. It has everything you need: beach, playgrounds, and even old-fashioned bath cabins. The spot was very popular during the war and in the years following the Liberation, when access to many parts of the Belgian coast had been restricted by the German occupiers. Open every day at 11 a.m. (closed on Tuesdays off-season). Refreshments and food available on site from 12 p.m. to 8:30 p.m. non-stop. Entrance: €6 (under 6 years: €5).

Renipont-Plage, rue du Pont, 5 in 1380 Lasne. Tel.: 02/652.30.39, www.proxiclic.net/renipont.

- The Place of Céroux: this vast and beautiful square, triangular in shape, often serves as a launch site for hot air balloons in the summer. A magnificent sight that can only be admired in calm weather, as hot-air balloons do not take well to strong winds.

- Mélin, one of the most beautiful villages in Wallonia, 6 km from Jodoigne, is a tribute to the local white stone, “Gobertange stone”, which ideally complements brick in the village houses. The small triangular square is particularly charming. The village is watered by the Gobertange stream and its numerous tributaries. In the beautiful season, the flowered façades create an even more charming picture.

- The Hottomont Tomb, in Grand-Rosières: along the ancient "Via Agrippa" connecting Bavay to Maastricht, at the current boundary between the provinces of Brabant Walloon and Namur, one can see a wooded mound, a bit incongruous in this land of vast plains. This is the “Hottomont Tomb,” a burial site of a notable dating back to the Gallo-Roman era. Several tombs of this type can be found in the region, particularly near Forville, in the entity of Fernelmont.