Beautiful Belgian Walk: for the 100th anniversary of the "Great War"

This year 2014 marks the 100th anniversary of the beginning of the First World War, a conflict of unprecedented violence, particularly deadly, which led the peoples of Europe to declare in 1918, “never again!” Being human as we are, we know what happened next... We invite you to take a memory stroll of over 200 kilometers.

When it comes to the First World War, the places of remembrance are abundant: the Yser, the Somme, the Marne, Verdun, the Chemin des Dames... But to create a nice route for our BBB, it’s not really easy. It’s too far, or the roads lack interest, or who knows what else... Thus, we chose to seek the traces of the Great War in the nearby Ardennes department. And there, surprise, the Sedan area, which military history enthusiasts mainly know for the German breakthrough at Sedan in May-June 1940, holds many memorial sites that we propose to show you. And the French Ardennes also guarantee pleasant roads, in good condition but little frequented. Have you ever seen a French person spending their holidays in the 08 (that’s the number of the Ardennes department)? We haven’t, and that’s a good thing. So we had set a meeting in Gedinne, just a stone's throw from France. To reach this friendly locality – which we had already visited as part of our BBB “Short-circuit” where we discussed the motorcycle circuits of Chimay, Gedinne, and Jehonville – the best way is to leave the E411 Brussels-Luxembourg at Achène (exit no. 20 bis), take the Charlemagne Road towards Philippeville, and abandon it after a few kilometers to reach Dinant, from where we will head towards Beauraing. The road connecting Beauraing to Gedinne is in more than correct condition for a Walloon road, and its wide curves are a true pleasure. Just watch out for a possible speed camera while passing through Vonêche. At the entrance of Gedinne, near the Garage du Circuit, don’t continue towards Gedinne-Station, but turn right towards Gedinne-village. You will follow part of the Gedinne circuit layout. A great introduction...

This point…

Gedinne, here we are! Devil, no way to find an open bar. Yet it’s market day... And it’s already 9 am. Too bad for the Gedinne bar owners! By mutual agreement with Serge, who is accompanying us on this reconnaissance with his 1200 GS “water-cooled”, we decide to stop at the first nice little pub we find. Southward bound, heading towards the Semois. Jaco and I let Serge go ahead, clearly “hot potato”... Our respective Tigers, aged 12 and 10, could keep up regardless, but without our morning coffee, our mood isn’t geared for performance... In Bohan, we find an open café near the bridge. As usual in the Semois, the Flemish and Dutch are in the majority. Even the bartender hails from Over-Moerdijk... That said, the welcome is charming and each of us gets a mini glass of Advocaat as a bonus. It almost feels like we’re in Batavia... Shortly after Sugny, our tires breathe a sigh of relief upon hitting French asphalt.

Even if France is currently not in the best position in its history (understatement...), it must be acknowledged that it holds a considerable lead over our small country regarding road quality. In Saint-Menges, a “strong house” riddled with shell holes watches us pass: it dates from May 1940, not 1914-18! Let’s take advantage of crossing Sedan to refuel with “ninety-five” at a hypermarket station, and let’s roll! On the side of Wadelincourt, we expect “This Point”, the US monument marking the extreme advancement of American troops during the First World War. The place is little known but highly symbolic, since in the final days of the 14-18 war, American involvement played a decisive role in the final victory. A few kilometers further, here are the French and German cemeteries of Noyers-Pont-Maugis, majestic and now peaceful sites that deserve to be honored with a visit.

We continue on some peaceful departmental roads, where it is nice to ride “by instinct,” without constantly checking our speedometer. These small roads will successively lead you to Thelonne, Bulson, Maisoncelle-et-Villers, Raucourt-et-Flaba. We pass near the Butte de Stonne. At the top, one enjoys an unspoiled panoramic view of this small corner of France where French and German armored vehicles confronted each other in May 1940... Whether it’s the First or Second World War, the lands of the region are soaked in blood... We have planned our route so that you arrive around noon at Buzancy, where a nice little restaurant awaits you, just the way we like them (see our “gourmet stops”). And if you’re a bit early, have a (small) drink to our health. But no excess, huh, because the afternoon will continue to spin! Before leaving, take a look at the Maison du Cheval de Trait Ardennais...

Memory of Roland Garros

With our stomachs full and spirits high, we continue under a beautiful sun along the winding roads to Saint-Morel, where we set out to find the stele in memory of Roland Garros, the illustrious French fighter pilot of the First World War. Since 1913, the man completed the first flight across the Mediterranean, which earned him enormous popularity at the time. Our road-book will lead you directly to the right place, but we struggled a bit to find this stele. Access, at the place called “Champ du Prêtre”, is marked, yet many signs have disappeared. So we did as in the old days: asking the locals for directions. An opportunity for often enriching exchanges, even if big trails can be a bit intimidating for the uninitiated. Near Savigny-sur-Aisne, we enjoy one or two hairpin bends, rare in this region of gentle hills, before following the water towards Falaise.
We approach the National Necropolis of Chestres. Once again, take the time to stop and take a breath. What calm under the foliage and what majesty. The atmosphere is one of reflection and rest here... We resume our ride towards Vouziers. Beware as we approach the city: the “speed cameras” are here and very much present! Thus, it is by scrupulously adhering to the speed limits that we enter Vouziers. The Grand-Place welcomes us for a brief refreshment. What joy it is to relax and exchange impressions under the warm sun...
Revitalized, we head further north: still many twists and turns on the agenda, on little-frequented and well-paved roads. A certain sense of motorcycling happiness. In Flize, we find ourselves at the gates of Charleville-Mézières. We avoid the Ardennes prefecture through Vrigne-sur-Meuse, where the last soldier of 14-18, Augustin-Joseph Trébuchon, reportedly fell, killed 17 minutes before the ceasefire. We think how some people really have no luck...

Final forest stretch

We are now arriving at the last kilometers of this loop which totals 220... Neufmanil, Gespunsart, Nouzonville, Les Hautes-Rivières. We dive back into the vast Ardennes forests. The finish line and Gedinne are in sight. Watch out for wildlife here: a deer bursting in front of your wheels will get your heart rate up to 150, believe us. So no excessive enthusiasm, even if, mainly on the French side, these last bends are very appealing. Safe travels and be careful!

Gourmet stops

- Hotel-restaurant du Saumon: it’s been quite a few years since we’ve roamed the Ardennes department, thoroughly. Yet, we didn’t know about the hotel-restaurant du Saumon in Buzancy. What a mistake! To our defense, it must be said that Julie and Damien, the owners, took over the establishment less than a year ago. They have made it a place where it’s nice to sit down and eat. In the kitchen, Damien, who trained at the Hospitality School of Namur, knows what quality cooking means, while in the dining room, Julie provides efficient and friendly service. The menu of the day, more than recommendable, offers you a starter, main course, and dessert for €15.50. What more could you ask for?
Hotel-restaurant du Saumon, 4 place du Général Chanzy, 08240 Buzancy.
Tel.: 00/33/(0)3 24.71.79.86. www.hotel-buzancy.fr

- Le Relais du Vert d’Eau: a little further along our route, in the small rural locality of Grandpré, the Vert d’Eau is truly an old-fashioned bar-tobacco shop, typical of a certain rural France, sadly on the verge of extinction. Only missing is Grandpa Moujeaux, beret on his head and Gitane paper-maïs in his mouth, having arrived there in his old 2CV van... The place is welcoming as can be, and at meal times, there will always be a daily special (€8) or a menu of the day (€13) available. It’s better to check the establishment’s opening hours before your visit... Reservations are required on weekends.
Le Relais du Vert D’Eau, 08250 Grandpré.
Tel.: 00/33/(0) 24.30.50.33.