the trail salviana

Welcome to the track Salviana, that shall lead you from the sunny beaches and the tumultuous summer until the hearth of the peaceful and simple hilly istrian inland. We start from Umag ? the town that, apart for its hot Riviera, vaunts a rich historical heritage and a unique event ? the festival of the traditional organ (Organum Histriae). Situated on a peninsula, founded in the transitional period from late antiquity into the early middle age, with the historic centre that loudly speaks with the spirit of the ancient Venice, Umag today is the most important touristic resort of the north-western Istria which name has been particularly promoted across Europe and the entire world thanks to a top-level sports event ? the international ATP tennis tournament ?Croatia Open?.

Ride across the centre and visit the westernmost city tower, at the same time the oldest building which hosts the city museum. If you are a lover of archaeology you can visit the exhibition on the 2nd and 3rd floor of the museum where you can find many interesting exponents of the ancient Sepomaja (Sipar) and information about the hydro-archaeology of the Umag area. Continuing your ride along the city walls you will come in front of the Parish church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary and St Pelegrin with unfinished façade built in 1760. Some documents testify to the existence of another older church from the 14th century with the lateral chapel consecrated to St Hermagor and St Fortunate.

Enter the church and visit a baroque altar, the Venetian triptych by a Friulan master from the 14th century, the canvas from a Venetian monastery from the mid-16th century with the motif of the resurrection of Christ and the vault with the representation of the Father God by another Venetian master from the second half of the 16th century. Pay special attention to the marvellous organ constructed by Francesco Dazzi in 1776 which, besides being used for ecclesiastic purposes, is also used at concerts during the traditional musical manifestation Days of the Organ. Except for the fact that thanks to its geographic position, it is considered the westernmost point of Croatia, Savudrija ? once amongst the most important ancient harbours in the northern Adriatic, it is known for a glorious naval battle between the Venetians and the fleet lead by Oton, son of the glorious king Frederich Barbarossa that took place there in the year 1177.

According to a legend, the toponym of Savudrija comes from Salvo-re which, if translated means ??the salvation of the king?? whereas, after the defeat on the sea, the son of the glorious Barbarossa escaping tried to hide in a nearby cistern. Also, there is the lighthouse. Apart for being the first lighthouse in Europe which has adopted gas-based illumination obtained by pit coal (it is considered the oldest lighthouse on both coastlines of the Adriatic Sea still in use), the lighthouse of Savudrija is also known for a sad love story. According to that story, the Count Metternich, although married, fell madly in love with a local brunette and had their love nest built there. As it happens in many sad love stories, although the lighthouse was built in less than a year, the two lovers couldn?t move in because a few days before it was built the beautiful and mysterious brunette had died. Leaving behind you the lighthouse and its sad love story you can ride further, towards the picturesque stone houses and istrian churches, towards the belfry of the church of St Mary and towards Plovanija, through which the road leads until Kaštel ? a small settlement on the top of the hill that dominates the valley of Dragonja.

If you continue further through Kremenje, you?ll finally reach Buje, recognizable from afar by two church belfries. Located at an altitude of 222 metres, thanks to its strategic position, in the past Buje has also been known as ?the Guardian of Istria?. This is not surprising at all ? one just needs to have a look at its medieval walls proudly erected in the middle of hilly landscape, citadel (Kaštel), and the belfries of the church of St Servulus from the 15th century and of the church of the Holly Mary from the 17th century. After you have carefully passed through the paved streets of the old centre of Buje, visited the Ethnographic museum and the Cathedral built on the foundations of the ancient Temple of Jupiter, you can take the way back to Umag.