This is one of Ireland's classic hillwalks, featuring an exposed coastal ridge, a 688m-high summit, amazing views, and perhaps the prettiest beach in the country. It’s quite an undertaking though, with no paths or signposts, so if you prefer a shorter outing, consider going to just Achill Head and back. This option showcases the wild and dramatic coastline, without the big haul to Croaghaun itself.

From Keem Bay, a steep ascent brings you to the look-out post at the top of Moyteoge Head. Incredible views underline why this was used as an observation post during both world wars, and for the local basking shark fishery.

Continue carefully northwest, along the top of 300m-high cliffs. At the base of Achill Head, you’re rewarded by another stunning profile along Croaghaun's western cliffs. Descend east from here, crossing a river valley before launching up the steep southern flank of Croaghaun. Rock outcrops decorate mountain's western top at 664m, with the main summit a little further east. From both points, the incredible 360˚ panorama encompasses much of the coastline and mountains of west Mayo.

The descent back to Keem is sustained, and made awkward in places by thick heather. Follow a small stream for the easiest terrain.

- Helen Fairbairn
 

Don’t Miss

Moyteoge Head look-out tower, on the ridge top south of Keem Bay

The basking shark display above the beach

A celebratory swim in Keem’s turquoise waters at the end of your exertions

Practical Information

Wear good boots and bring a map, plus all the normal gear for a mountain ascent

Avoid strong winds and poor visibility – the ridge has a sheer drop to the sea

Keem has two car parks, but both fill up early during summer months. Use the shuttle bus when available, and never park along the road as this causes traffic chaos.