The Royal Parks of Brussels

A walk through the northern part of the Brussels region and Vlaams-Brabant’s Wemmel & Asse. A few green buffers connect the marshy Molenbeek valley, the old domains of the Royal Family, remnants of Expo 58, beautiful Brussels parks and forests with a corner of Brabant's Kouters.

 

 

Kerremansbos and the Marshes of Ganshoren: 0km - 2.5km

Brussels is a greener city than most think...

With 8000 ha of green space, this makes up about half the area of the Brussels Region. We park just over the regional border in Vlaams-Brabant's Zellik, where you can still access with all vehicles. The entire Brussels Region is a low emission zone, meaning older diesel vehicles are no longer allowed. You can also reach this walk from the train station Jette, Sint-Agatha-Berchem or by metro from Heizel.

Right next to the parking area is the first green area Kerremanspark or Kerremansbos. A park in this district of Asse that opened in 2018 to serve as a green link in this Molenbeek valley. By connecting these forests, plant and animal species can spread more easily again, allowing endangered species to return. For instance, there is the grass snake that you can spot right at the edge of our capital with a bit of luck, but only in warmer temperatures and better weather than today.

 

The next green space on our path and an important link for the Molenbeek valley is the Marshes of Ganshoren. Meanwhile, located on Brussels soil in the municipality of Ganshoren, we explore this nature area of 11 hectares. Brussels, derived from the Frankish Broucsella or Broekzele, means swamp settlement, which attests to the large presence of multiple marshes in this region around Brussels.

This Marsh of Ganshoren used to be one large marsh with the marsh of Jette, but due to the construction of railway line 60 (Jette - Dendermonde) in 1881, this marshland was split. However, it is thanks to this railway line and railway line 50 (Brussels - Ghent) that this area remained undisturbed despite the increasing development in and around the capital. We leave this protected area since 1984 and cross railway line 50 towards Castle de Rivieren.

 

The Castle de Rivieren or Castle ter Rivieren has a history dating back to the Middle Ages and served, just like Castle Bouchout of the Botanical Garden in Meise, as protection against the adjacent lords of Grimbergen. Along the Molenbeek, there were also various fortified towers to protect the County of Brabant.

It was not until the 17th century that this fortified castle was transformed into a pleasure castle with a pond - by the Count of Jette, for which we are grateful for the current view. You can catch a small glimpse from the back, but this since 1983 classified cultural heritage has not been publicly accessible since 1998 and is used for events and seminars. Through some alleys and a city playground, we head towards Tentoonstellingenlaan - N290, which we cross via the railway bridge.

 

Koning Boudewijnpark to Prins Leopoldsquare: 2.5km - 5km

The next green buffer on our path is again thanks to plans to accommodate a highway here. Fortunately, these plans did not go through, and the municipality of Jette decided in 1977 to create parks in 3 phases, so that the marshes of Ganshoren and Jette, Poelbos, Dielegembos, Laarbeekbos, and the Heilig-Harttuin are connected. We walk from Phase 2 to Phase 1, leaving Phase 3 of the Koning Boudewijnpark for last.

 

Phase 2 of the Koning Boudewijnpark was established in 1983 and quickly faced much criticism. The original natural landscape disappeared and made way for the artificial creation of lawns and ponds. In 1992, this was addressed with the reconstruction of a more natural landscape park.

 

After crossing E. Toussaintstraat, we arrive at Phase 1 of the Koning Boudewijnpark. Created between 1979 and 1981, this forms the lowest part of the Molenbeek valley. Just like with Phase 2, there was a lot of criticism during the construction of this classic landscape park here too. The felling of trees from the former monastery domain without a permit and expropriation of 12 houses caused much outrage, leading to a protest. The existing pond is also the only remnant of this historical watermill of the Abbey of Dielegem.

 

After crossing the Heilig-Hartlaan, we take the Youth Park of Jette towards Prins Leopoldsquare. This Brussels park of black pines, poplars, horse chestnuts, common maples, and weeping willows leads us right to Houba de Strooperlaan.

 

Castle Van Stuyvenberg and the old royal parks: 5km - 8km

This area called Stuyvenbergh is, like the park Prins Leopoldsquare, located in the Brussels municipality of Laken. We take the parks Clementinasquare, Colonial Garden, Jan Sobieski Park, and the Gardens of the Florist of Stuyvenberg, where most of these parks used to be part of the royal gardens or domains.

The Colonial Garden was purchased in 1905 by King Leopold II to house his exotic plant collection from Congo, after the Royal Greenhouses of Laken had become too small. Since 1964, this garden has been publicly accessible, and the exotic plants moved to the Botanical Garden of Meise. You can still find a cottage in Norman style that was built there on the orders of the same king.

 

The next park is the Gardens of the Florist of Stuyvenberg, where the greenhouses were used for growing ornamental flowers and plants during Leopold II's time. After his death, these greenhouses gradually fell into disrepair until this estate was thoroughly addressed in 1999, transforming it into a pleasant city park. This garden now offers some unique views over this beautiful city and is used as a showcase for Belgian park and garden management. A beautiful park with a wide variety of flora, which you will rarely see appearing in other Brussels parks. Through intensive park management, this park remains attractive throughout the different seasons.

 

After these beautiful parks, we take the Witte Acacialaan next to the estate of Castle Van Stuyvenberg, towards the Sint-Annabron - a miraculous spring that was believed to help against cramps, fever, and eye pain, making this place a pilgrimage site for pilgrims. This led to the slightly higher located Sint-Annakapel and prayer place of Archduchess Isabella of Spain, who had the current stone fountain built there in 1625.

 

We walk to the entrance of Castle Van Stuyvenberg. This castle estate also belonged to the properties of our royal family. Since 2017, it has been rented by the Royal Foundation to a couple of Belgian entrepreneurs - who now must be scratching their heads during high energy prices.

This enormous 19th-century villa with an even older castle farm became property of, indeed - King Leopold II - through buying and exchanging with the Belgian state, who had extensive renovations performed on the castle farm in 1890. It has also been extensively tackled by King Albert I so that his son Prince Leopold (King Leopold III) and Princess Astrid could live there, subsequently becoming the birthplace of Kings Baudouin and Albert II. A castle where several princes-princesses and kings-queens have lived and died, such as Queen Elisabeth and Queen Fabiola.

 

We take the landscape park Park van Laken towards Castle van Laken. This park right next to the royal palace was established on the orders of King Leopold II for the 'common' people. Perhaps as a sense of guilt for the many sufferings that this king caused during his reign in Belgian colonial Congo.

We first head towards the Leopold I monument or the Monument for the Dynasty - a monument with a spire of 50m high, which was supposed to open on the 50th anniversary of Belgium but was only finished on its 51st anniversary. The nine sections reflect the nine former Belgian provinces when Belgium was still a single simple country instead of three regions, each with their own laws, rules, ministers, etc...

 

Castle van Laken and the Royal Greenhouses: 8km - 9km

From this monument, closed for security reasons, we see the entrance of Castle van Laken - the royal residence of our royal couple. We approach the impressive entrance to walk along this estate of 120 hectares towards the Chinese Pavilion. Built as a summer residence, this castle was inhabited not only in the summer but throughout the entire year by all kings (except Albert II), rather than the much smaller Royal Palace in Brussels.

 

The enormous buildings and accompanying Royal Greenhouses of Laken are state property or part of the Royal Foundation but unfortunately are not accessible. There was previously talk of making this estate partially publicly accessible. The greenhouses can be visited about 20 days per year in the spring period. A wish of Leopold II that all reigning princes continued afterwards. These impressive greenhouses or Winter Garden of 14,000 m² perhaps even surpass the Plant Palace of Meise. We will certainly try to return in spring to visit this winter garden.

 

Garden of the Chinese Pavilion and Ossegempark: 8.5km - 12km

A little further than the Greenhouses of Laken is the Garden of the Chinese Pavilion. A narrow passageway to this Chinese Pavilion - designed as a luxury restaurant but never functioning as a restaurant, leading via the red Japanese Tower to the Stables of the Chinese Pavilion or the Museum for Japanese Art. Together, these form the Museums of the Far East and housed art treasures from China and Japan. Since 2013, these buildings have been closed due to stability issues and the buildings have been emptied until renovation is executed.

 

From this park, we pass underneath the A12 motorway towards the American Theater. These studios of the VRT are remnants of the American pavilion from Expo 58 or the World Exposition held in Brussels in 1958. In use by the VRT until 2012, rich with numerous Flemish shows such as the Belgian final of Eurosong, Blokken, Droomfabriek, Premiejagers, and Slisse & Cesar - this building was abandoned due to high maintenance costs, cracks in the building, and poor insulation.

 

We also leave this site to explore the adjacent Ossegempark. This English park was also created on the occasion of the World Exposition of 1935, on the site of an old quarry. You can find a monument in memory of the Belgian pilots and crew members who fought in the Battle of Britain, a monument of former mayor Adolphe Max, and the Green Theater - a natural theater that accommodates 3000 spectators.

 

Atomium to the Brussels Ring / R0: 12km - 13.5km

After this large relief-rich park, we arrive at perhaps the most famous building in Belgium. The Atomium - a monument located in this Heizelpark and built for Expo 58. It represents a fundamental cell of pure iron - magnified 165 billion times - resulting in spheres with a diameter of 18m and a structure of 102m high. Now a popular attraction that was allowed to remain standing even after the expo of '58 due to its great success. After extensive renovations of our 'nine spheres' between 2004 & 2006, the aluminum panels were replaced with stainless steel, and LED lighting was installed - at a cost of 26 million euros. Named by CNN in 2013 as the weirdest building in Europe, yet still a spectacular building symbolizing Belgium.

 

A little further, we see more famous Belgian buildings such as the Palaces of Heizel (on the right) and the King Boudewijn Stadium (on the left).

Brussels Expo, the exposition halls of Brussels or Palaces of Heizel, are the largest exhibition space in the Benelux with an area of 115,000m². Known from several large events such as the Auto Show, the Vacation Fair, the Food Fair, and Batibouw with the oldest halls dating back to the World Exposition in 1935. With Palace 5 or the Centennial Palace as the centerpiece, this expo is still in use after nearly 90 years and has since expanded to 12 Palaces.

 

Another building meant for events is the Centennial Stadium, Heizel Stadium, or King Boudewijn Stadium. A multifunctional stadium with 50,000 seats, making it the largest stadium in Belgium. The Centennial Stadium or Jubilee Stadium - symbolizing the 100-year existence of Belgium - was officially opened in 1930 with a match against the Netherlands. During WWII, both German and English troops used this stadium, causing significant damage to the building.

After a much too expensive renovation in 1931 and a new name - Heizel Stadium - this stadium was used for numerous sporting events for over 50 years until it made world news on May 29, 1985. One of the largest disasters in sports history, for which a three-part documentary has recently been released, better known as the Heysel tragedy. A football match between English Liverpool and Italian Juventus where due to riots, 39 people (mainly Italians) lost their lives, marking the end for this Heizel Stadium. From 1995 onwards, the renovated stadium was inaugurated as King Boudewijn Stadium, where several matches of the Euro 2000 took place. Moreover, it is the home of the most famous athletics meeting in the world - Memorial Van Damme - and the setting for several mega concerts of well-known international artists. There was even talk of building a new stadium, or the Eurostadium, on parking C, but these plans were scrapped in 2019, and the King Boudewijn Stadium will be renovated again to meet new standards.

 

We take the Verregatpark and Garden Neighborhood Verregat to take a low-traffic crossing over the Brussels Ring near Parking C and the busy Romeinsesteenweg.

 

Wemmel and the Wemmelse Motte: 13.5km - 17km

When we cross this Roman road, we find ourselves back in Flanders. Home to Nicole and Hugo, Lukaku, and ... is the Vlaams-Brabant's Wemmel, a municipality with facilities located in the Brabantse Kouters landscape region. A fertile area where the Roman conqueror settled until they were driven out by the Franks around 370. Meanwhile, it has transformed into a highly urbanized area where we try to connect parks, playgrounds, some consecutive paths, and low-traffic residential streets. We start with the park by the Sint-Engelbertuskerk - a temporary church from 1936 - to walk towards the sports hall of Wemmel. We again take some unpaved paths to the Wemmelse Motte - a play forest and nature area that gives us a car-free connection with the next forest on our path.

 

Relegem to Laarbeekbos: 17km - 19km

When we leave the nature reserve Wemmelse Motte for hilly fields, we find ourselves back on the territory of Asse. We take an agricultural road or Oude Jetseweg towards the medieval Abbey farm 't Hooghof. A farm or yard named after its location on a steeper height, thus dominating this rural area. Owned by the Abbey of Affligem since 1107 until it suffered severe damage during the French Revolution in 1794. Sold by the French occupier to various private individuals and has since been transformed into a B&B with youth accommodation and horse breeding.

 

We approach the Brussels Ring again, crossing this highway via a tunnel to find ourselves in Laarbeekbos. Back on Brussels territory in the municipality of Jette, right next to UZ Brussel and its campus, this municipality houses a beautiful Natura 2000 forest. Already inhabited during the time of the Romans - as evidenced by the nearby Roman villa of Jette - and protected over the years, as this domain belonged to the Premonstratensian Abbey of Dielegem, just like Poel- & Dielegembos. There was also the quarry for making the abbey, making this a relief-rich forest, with calcareous springs and a unique fauna & flora. This in the form of ancient beeches, wild leeks, wood anemones, some wood hyacinths, lily of the valley, wood buttercups, and pennywort. This Laarbeek