Beautiful Belgian Walk: 160km from Couvin to Beaumont

The Boot of Hainaut: this Belgian territory growth surrounded by the French Ardennes and Avesnois. A region shared between the province of Hainaut, with Beaumont and Chimay, and the province of Namur, with Couvin. A corner where it is pleasant to ride a motorcycle, through fields and forests, on these small roads of the departments of Ardennes, Aisne, and Nord, neglected by Hexagonal bikers!

Text: Philippe Bonamis & Jacques Berghmans. Photos: Jonathan Godin. With the friendly participation of Eric Nicloux.

The meeting was set early, in Couvin, at the Piron square, which bikers know well, even if many of them seem to frequent the bistros of said square more than the roads around. They are wrong because from the first kilometers, we will dive into the heart of the vast and beautiful forests that stretch to Brûly, at the French border. Leaving Couvin, it is impossible to miss the gigantic construction site for the town bypass, finally started, even though it had been demanded by the Couvinois for decades… We understand them: the N5 crossing through downtown Couvin is indeed the "weak link" of the Amsterdam-Marseille route used by an ever-increasing number of heavy goods vehicles, with all the nuisances this generates. However, the bypass project does not seem to please everyone, as sabotaging civil engineering equipment occurred a few months ago. And to make matters worse, the whims of the weather and concerns about ground stability have meant that phase 1 of the bypass, which was supposed to be completed by the end of 2016, will only be completed by the end of 2017, if all goes well…

That being said, all of this is quickly forgotten when approaching the winding roads that climb towards the Ry de Rome Dam. A beautiful place, a bit austere, and reminiscent of certain corners of the Vosges. The terrain then softens as we descend southward towards Brûly. The bypass works, still ongoing, force us to leave the N920 – which is only national in name, as it is so little trafficked – to make a detour shortly after the place called "L'Hermitage". Nothing serious, and we arrive at the Gué d'Hossus without incident, avoiding the customs post on the N5. Rocroi, which now seems to be spelled Rocroy – it's new, just released – is not far away. While the modern neighborhoods bear little interest, the historic heart of this star-shaped fortified city is truly worth a look, with its impressive protective moats and ramparts… And then, the wooden hall on the Place d'Armes is a classic that never gets old. Perfect for putting on the rain suit when the sky grows threatening…

Aéropostale and good food

The general heading now shifts southwest towards Laon. The D877 crosses large forests. Straight by sections – watch out for crossing game! – which encourages opening up, it also offers pleasant curves, large or medium, a good surface, and light traffic. What more could one want? We pass through a few villages where time seems to have almost stopped: Eteignières, Auvillers-les-Forges, then Rumigny and its elegant castle (on your left as you enter the town). After Rumigny, we veer right into the Aisne department and arrive at Aubenton, the birthplace of aviator Jean Mermoz, mythical pilot of Aéropostale. A true hero in the interwar period, Mermoz made history by completing the first crossing of the South Atlantic in 1930. A small museum, located in his birthplace, recounts his life but for a visit, it is necessary to book well in advance. Today, Mermoz no longer draws crowds… But Aubenton is also one of those little restaurants in deep France that we love. During our reconnaissance in the beautiful season, we stopped there for a bite to eat. Like us, take a refreshing break on the sunny terrace of "La Table de Maya"... A simple pleasure, without fuss but that provides a lot of well-being. A day on a motorcycle is made to disconnect from all the daily troubles!

Notre-Dame de Scourmont

After Aubenton, we take always less frequented routes to head back north towards the Belgian border. We pass through Signy-le-Petit and its colossal fortified church, typical of Thiérache. And if you didn't stop at Aubenton to eat, there is everything you need here with the restaurant "La Hulotte au Lion d'Or". As we did not try it, we did not include it in the "gourmet stops" section, but the establishment has a good reputation (info: www.lahulotte-auliondor.fr). Also, note a great bakery in Signy-le-Petit on the square. Attention, picnic lovers! Our route twists until the border, passing through La Neuville-aux-Joutes. Once back in Belgian territory, we go straight to reach the Abbey of Scourmont, world-famous for the Chimay Trappist beers brewed there. Contrary to what one might think, the abbey was founded relatively recently in 1850. It was not until 1956 that a Christmas beer was created that would become Chimay blue. Despite the passage of time, this brown beer remains just as appreciated by strong beer lovers. The Chimay Triple with a white cap was created in 1966 and the Chimay triple (on tap) in 2001. The latest product from the brewery is the Chimay Dorée, launched in 2013. After this hoppy interlude dedicated to Catholic beers – as Julos Beaucarne puts it nicely – we hit the road again to reach Chimay, passing through Baileux (where Chimay cheeses are made and where the beers are bottled). In Lompret, the very cute village, we will take a break by the shores of the Eau Blanche before arriving at Virelles and its pond (see the Route Book).

A legendary road circuit

Chimay is known for its castle of the Princes of Chimay, but the motorcyclists we are cannot pass by the circuit that celebrated its 90th anniversary in 2016. The "grand Chimay" used until 1991 connected Chimay to Salles, before returning to Chimay via the chapel of Arbrisseau and the famous turn of la Bouchère. It was a very fast track that allowed big hearts to express themselves fully. The lap record is held by a certain Yvo Grauls who clocked over 195 km/h on average in 1972, driving a Chevrolet Camaro. The current layout, opened in 1992, is only 4.5 meters and features three chicanes to slow down competitors… It's safer but it has also much less character… At Salles, we continue due west, heading for Macon and Momignies. The French border is not far away, and some local customs posts will remind those who saw "Nothing to Declare" with Dany Boon and Benoît Poelvoorde, both excellent in this popular entertainment, in the good sense of the term… The first French locality, Ohain, takes us right into the L'Avesnois regional park, this hedged country that recalls Normandy. It is also where excellent cider and formidable cheeses are made: next to the strong Boulette d'Avesnes, a camembert or a farmhouse munster would almost seem bland…

The ride on the small roads of Avesnois is always a delight. Green and welcoming landscapes, pleasantly winding roads. Thus, fully enjoying our mounts, we arrive at the shores of Lake Val Joly, a very popular leisure base in summer, after having successively crossed Wallers-en-Fagne, Moustier-en-Fagne, and Eppe-Sauvage. The BBB itinerary then runs along the border before veering away to go stroll towards Beaurieux and Clairfays. There is nothing particularly special to see around here but the countryside is beautiful and the pleasure of riding is very present. It is in Hestrud, at the Customs Museum, that we will conclude this stroll, even though the road book, paper or electronic, will take you to Beaumont, between Chimay and Charleroi, to put you back on the right path to return home. Safe travels and be cautious, always.

Route Book

- The Ry de Rome Dam: just a few kilometers from Couvin, the Ry de Rome Dam, set in a forested setting, is reminiscent of a mountain lake. The place is appreciated by joggers and cyclists, the path along the banks being built to Ravel standards. The lake is fed by three streams: the Ry de l'Hermitage, the Ry de Rome, and the Ry des Serpents. 1,500 meters long and 300 meters wide, it spans an area of about 25 hectares. Its purpose is more the treatment of water to ensure potability rather than the production of electricity. We are not in the Alps!

- Rocroi: this small locality of about 2,400 inhabitants is known for its well-preserved star fortification, due to Vauban. The name Rocroi means the crossroad of Raoul, a local lord in the 12th century. During the Revolution, the town was renamed Roc-Libre! In the central square towards which the streets of the historic heart converge, one discovers a very beautiful wooden hall. Also note a very good bakery, in the street of Burgundy, almost opposite the hall. Attention to lovers of real good French baguette!

- Aubenton: the aviator Jean Mermoz, made famous by Aéropostale and also by his tragic disappearance in the South Atlantic aboard a Latécoère seaplane in 1936, was born in Aubenton on December 9, 1901. A museum, located in his birthplace, keeps his memory, right next to the town hall. Info: www.tourisme-thierache.fr or 0033/(0)3 23.97.70.22. Prior contact is essential for the visit.

- Signy-le-Petit: just a stone's throw from the Belgian border, Signy-le-Petit has an imposing fortified church that is really worth a stop. For more details on these buildings and the "Route of Fortified Churches", a beautiful signposted tourist route, well suited for a day trip on a motorcycle, refer to the BBB dedicated to the subject (Moto 80 n° 752, July 2013).

- Abbey Notre-Dame de Scourmont: Chimay blue, red, triple or golden, that's the question! Yes, it is the monks of the Abbey of Notre-Dame de Scourmont who, even today, preside over the destinies of the most famous of Walloon Trappist beers! Chimay is an authentic Trappist beer: this means that it is brewed within the walls of a Trappist monastery, under the control and responsibility of the monastic community, which is involved in the entire brewing process. Most of the income generated by this activity is devoted to the needs of the community and to social works. Concerning the abbey itself, its origins date back to 1850. It was indeed in the summer of that year that a small group of monks settled on the Scourmont plateau. Around the monastery, a farm, a brewery, and a cheese factory were created. The beers of Chimay are still not owned by any brewing group today, and that is a good thing! Want a tasting? You will find nothing at the abbey itself… You need to go to the Chimay Space, accessible by taking the left at the T junction after the abbey (follow signs for Auberge de Poteaupré, while the GPS will indicate a right turn to continue the itinerary of the BBB). Info: www.chimay.com.

- The Pond of Virelles: many people refer to the lake of Virelles while its official name is indeed "pond", although the body of water has the dimensions of a lake. Not very logical, okay, but that's how it is! Virelles has an interesting nature space called Aquascope (www.aquascope.be or 060/21.13.63). Note the possibility to spend a night, by reservation, in one of the two comfortable transparent bubbles that rise above the water on the south bank of the pond. It's not cheap (200€ to 220€ per night for 2 people) but here is an experience that will please nature lovers who want to taste the charms of a night under the stars without its inconveniences. The site of the Pond of Virelles also houses a tavern (light catering). Tel.: 060/21.13.27.

- Chimay: the small "capital of the Boot of Hainaut" is known for its fast circuit which, in the past, saw the best motorcycle and auto drivers in the world compete but also for the castle of the Princes of Chimay, recently renovated and adapted to current technologies, with guided tours now taking place via an iPad! The castle is known for its superb 200-seat theater, a replica of that of Louis XV at the Château de Fontainebleau. It served as the setting for the film "The Music Master" by Gérard Corbiau. Info: www.chateaudechimay.be. And if you stop in Chimay at meal time, don't forget to taste the escavèche, an excellent preparation of fish (eel, trout, or pond fish) in jelly, which is enjoyed with fries. The escavèche is said to have been introduced here by the Spaniards, great navigators, to preserve the fish caught in the many ponds of the region.

- Momignies: in Momignies, a large border village, hollow glass packaging (bottles, vials, jars…) has always been made, and this activity continues to this day. Gerresheimer Momignies S.A., formerly the New Glassworks of Momignies, now employs over 400 people. This company manufactures bottles and jars in clear, opal, or colored glass.

- Moustier-en-Fagne: don't miss the "Spanish house," an impressive dwelling from the 16th century. Now part of the neighboring Saint-Dodon priory (known for its icon manufacturing and Byzantine rite services), it is distinguished by its architecture typical of the Spanish Netherlands, with its stepped gables and mullioned windows.

- Hestrud: BBB loyalists know Hestrud well, on the road connecting Cousolre (F) to Beaumont (B). In Hestrud, the old border post has kept its barrier, which is now always raised. The place houses an interesting Customs Museum that is worth a visit. And to top it all off, there is a lovely little bistro next door, where locals like to come for a drink, whether at the counter or on the terrace overlooking the Thure! Info: www.cafemuseedeladouane.fr.

Gourmet Stops

- It is not easy, if one is an early riser, to find a cafe or bistro open at Piron square, in Couvin! Traditionally a point of departure or arrival for many motorcycle rides or trips, used in its time by the Moto 80 Club, the café La Ruche was completely closed during our reconnaissance, which was done on a weekday, let’s specify… We retreated to the pleasant bakery-sandwich shop at the corner of the square and Faubourg Saint-Germain (N5 towards France). Good welcoming and possibility of having a coffee on-site…

- La Table de Maya, in Aubenton: here's a good provincial address that we love. The choice is not huge but it is good, hearty, and inexpensive! Plus, the owner, in the dining room, is very friendly. Well-crafted local specialties featuring Maroilles, as well as a reasonably priced daily menu (13€). Possibility to eat on the terrace during good weather. Parking in front of the establishment, which is very easy to find, at the entrance of Aubenton following our road book. Open every lunchtime (except Wednesday) from 11:45 AM to 2:30 PM. Free Wi-Fi.

La Table de Maya, rue Saint-Nicolas, 26 in 02500 Aubenton. Tel.: 0033 (0)3.23.97.07.21, www.facebook.com/La-table-de-maya