South Kaibab Trail to Bright Angel Trail

We make a sequence of three trails. Down via South Kaibab Trail, through the valley via Tonto Trail and back up via Bright Angel Trail. In total good for more than twenty kilometers and a height difference of 1,350 meters in the sweltering heat. That difference in height, for the good listener, is the same as from the coast to the highest point in Belgium. Times two!

Last night we already inquired at the Visitor Center to what extent the plan for this ambitious walk is realistic. We were told that our planned walk is not mundane and very ambitious. But for 'virile young men', it should work if the right preparation is done.

Here are three golden tips for our survival:

We need to carry at least five liters of water per person so as not to dehydrate along the way;

We should definitely start the hike at South Kaibab Trail. Bright Angel Trail is equipped with rest points with water fountains in three places to refill empty bottles of water. Making the walk in the opposite direction means that you risk falling without water;

We have to leave before sunrise. After all, the hike takes a full day and you have to be back from the canyon before sunset.

Armed with these tips and two overflowing backpacks, we board the first shuttle bus shortly before sunrise. This takes us to the start of South Kaibab Trail.

The sun rises slowly from the horizon. She fills the entire landscape in beautiful colors and casts a beautiful shadow play in the Grand Canyon. The descent via South Kaibab Trail is easy to do. The rising sun chases away the fresh morning feeling. On the way down we look out with beautiful views over Grand Canyon National Park.

After about five kilometers we arrive at Skeleton Point, a beautiful viewpoint that invites you for some photos. We take a break in the company of incredibly cute prairie dogs.

We descend further into the canyon until we reach the end point of South Kaibab Trail a little before noon.

According to our information, we should be able to transfer to the Tonto Trail here. We only see a desert landscape at the bottom of the Grand Canyon. There is no longer any question of a walking path. We do find a wooden cross somewhere with Tonto West on it. A friendly hiker takes out his staff card and confirms. It must be 'somewhere' there ... that 'famous' Tonto Trail.

So we are heading for the adventure. We fearlessly step into the desert. On paper, it all seems very well-behaved. About seven kilometers at the bottom of the canyon without any significant difference in height. What can happen?

However, there is no living soul to be found here. At the bottom of the Grand Canyon it turns out to be incredibly hot. The sun reflects off the walls of the gorge and almost nothing grows here. We have not been given a dash of shadow. The temperature quickly rises to more than 50 °C at noon! We find that five liters of water per person is absolutely not excessive. Our water supply is dwindling rapidly.

By now, time is ticking by and we have been walking for an hour or two in this sweltering heat. Long for seven kilometers, right? Two hours becomes three. We have now also crossed a river. Was that the intention?

There is no GSM reception anywhere so we are on our own. Our water supply is now almost completely exhausted.

As if by miracle, we reach the connection with Bright Angel Trail a little later. Back a normal hiking trail. This time even with a bench under a roof so that we finally have some shade again.

The thermometer indicates a temperature so hot that it is out of range of the meter. There is a tap here where we can refill our empty bottles of water. Whew! Hikers also pass back here, so we are saved!

It worked, we survived Grand Canyon National Park!