This walk is a pilgrims walk done twice a year. Pilgrims trek from the city of Nuoro to the village of Lula under cover of night. Twenty miles later, at the entrance of Santuario di San Francesco, they reach their destination. These seekers persist not to find the sanctuary itself, but to eat what may be the rarest pasta in the world. Su filindeu—literally “threads of God” in Sardo—is unfathomably intricate. It’s made by only three women on Earth, all of whom live on Sardinia. And they make it only for the biannual Feast of San Francesco. It’s been this way for the last 200 years.
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