One of the most striking Hanseatic cities is Zwolle. The Sassenpoort is a majestic city gate that dates back to the early 1400s, when the city just joined the Hanseatic League. No expense was spared to create an impressive entrance.
From high above, this city gate has witnessed the passage of time. When walking in Zwolle today, it only takes a little imagination and a look up to taste the rich history. Modern shops have replaced the medieval trading buildings. Yet the historic Gothic gable ends of the magnificent trading houses still radiate as proudly as they did centuries ago.
Zwolle was one of the great Hanseatic cities in the Middle Ages. When Amsterdam and Rotterdam were still insignificant villages, Zwolle shone as an imposing city. The magnificent buildings in the medieval old town still testify to the enormous wealth of that time. Hyper-modern in the Middle Ages, but even today a hip atmosphere prevails. Colleges attract students, and entrepreneurs as well as creatives bring dynamism. We can’t understand why a city with this history and dynamism is not better known in Flanders.
We are also such Flemish people who honestly had never heard of Zwolle. We came here through NBTC Holland, the tourism authority of the Netherlands. We are working with them to get to know the Hanseatic cities in East Netherlands. They even got these two enthusiastic hikers on bicycles! Hopefully, we haven’t forgotten how to ride a bike, as a route of 48 kilometers awaits us today. A short ride takes us to the Museum de Fundatie. The building looks like a typical neo-Gothic art temple, on which a space creature has laid a futuristic egg. This superstructure is called UFO, and the windows at the back offer a beautiful view of the historic old town.
We make our way through picturesque alleys into the historic center, where old and new have found a beautiful balance. We encounter numerous cozy terraces, hip cafes, nice bars, and beautiful restaurants. We are almost tempted to buy a painting at Nendekunst, one of the charming art galleries. Culture and coziness can also be found in the book temple Waanders In de Broeren. This must be one of the most impressive bookstores we have ever seen, and that says a lot. In this large former church, the written word is revered. What a fantastic setting to browse for lovely books! For enthusiasts, there is also a café.
Also not to be missed in the old center is the Zwolse Balletjeshuis. For centuries, this beautiful building has been home to colorful jars filled with handmade sweets. Ideal for those with a sweet tooth looking to indulge.
We could easily spend a day in Zwolle with its cozy little shops and the beautiful UFO museum. However, a long bike ride still lies ahead. The ride to our next stop takes us along a well-signposted network of cycling paths. We know this from Flanders too, but the difference in the Netherlands is mainly made by the cycling infrastructure.
We should not risk our lives while leaving Zwolle. No, here real bike avenues have been created, where cyclists and not cars are king. On the other streets, we ride on well-separated bike paths, often under a beautiful green canopy. Despite the size of Zwolle, it is noticeable how calm cycling in the city is. At many points, we hardly encounter cars. However, bicycles are abundant here. This proves that you can get people on bikes if you provide space to ride comfortably and safely.
We quickly ride out of the city, directly into a typically Dutch natural landscape. White clouds drift in a blue sky over green farmland, crossed by a cycling path. The path is pleasant, flat, and the surroundings are inspiring. Nevertheless, we must admit that our completely untrained cycling legs have some trouble with a strong west wind. We have embraced the cycling infrastructure of the Netherlands in our hearts, but our legs have not quite agreed yet. We ride along the IJssel River through some picturesque villages with old Dutch farmhouses to the next Hanseatic city.
We arrive in Kampen in style: over a bridge with golden wheels on top. The Hanseatic city owes its rich past to its favorable location on the banks of the IJssel. Here too, there are numerous beautiful medieval buildings and facades to admire and discover regional products in nice shops. There is also no shortage of terraces, bars, and restaurants.
The historic center of Kampen is much smaller than that of Zwolle. It is limited to a few streets between the Buitenkerk and the Bovenkerk. The latter was the first cathedral in the Netherlands. Upon entering, we receive a brochure with some explanations of various sights in the building. The organ, in particular, is a real eye-catcher.
The return trip to Zwolle again takes us through a beautifully expansive natural landscape. We enjoy this without straining our legs: the west wind now gives us a boost from behind.
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