Zauberpfade - Wandern in Tälern und Gründen um Hohnstein

Oh, now we've probably burst into the middle of the gathering of forest spirits. It's easy to imagine that until just now there were dwarves, elves, fairies, mermaids and trolls where there are now countless little stone towers in holes in the rocks and on boulders. They are probably holding out in their camouflage until we intruders finally move on. In any case, the time and place would be ideal for a meeting with these shy creatures. The Gautschgrotte grotto not far from Hohnstein is a magical place now, on an early July morning. And we have it all to ourselves.
Rock walls around 20 meters high form a natural amphitheatre, a surprisingly dramatic climax at the end of an overgrown path. The impressive formation, in front of which we feel tiny, commands respect and hushed voices. Only the trickling of the small rivulet, which becomes a roaring waterfall after rainfall and freezes into a monumental ice column in some winters, enlivens the silence.
The solitude is the reward for the early start. Soon the magic of the night, the last remnants of which still hang between the trees as morning mist, will be completely gone. And the fairytale realm will once again be completely transformed into the Saxon Switzerland National Park, which opens up to nature lovers and forest enthusiasts, hikers and walkers. The search for romance, for the eerily beautiful, has brought us here. And it seems that we have found both promptly. Our hike will take us from the castle town into the Polenztal valley and then up to the Brand rock plateau, the "balcony of Saxon Switzerland". We made a small detour for the Gautschgrotte cave.
The valleys and ravines of the Elbe Sandstone Mountains form the antithesis to the spectacular rock formations, the table mountains, basalt cones and viewpoints. Bastei, Königstein, Lilienstein, Pfaffenstein and Schrammsteine are famous calendar motifs and popular excursion destinations. Compared to this, the Gründe lead a shadowy existence. This is because their actual charms are difficult or impossible to capture in a picture. The mountains also make an impact in photos and paintings thanks to their striking aesthetics. The grounds, on the other hand, have an effect primarily through the variety of sensory impressions that can only be experienced on site: the coolness of the air, the scent of the forest, the murmur of the streams.
Hiking in the grounds is something for connoisseurs - and a pleasure practically all year round. Observant hikers will discover that each ground, each valley and each gorge has its own signature, its own unmistakable character.
We also experience this on our tour. The Schindergraben, which connects Hohnstein with the Polenztal valley, is rugged, wild and beautiful. Several small bridges lead over the crystal-clear stream. Educational boards along the way tell us, among other things, that the ground flora is richer in species than usual in the sandstone and that rare fern species and a particularly large number of mosses and lichens thrive here. This is probably what makes the air here so indescribably aromatic.
From the Schindergraben we reach the Polenztal. It's almost like turning off a jungle path onto a promenade. Whereas the path was shady and bumpy a moment ago, it is now sunny, wide, flat and family-friendly. The impressive rock faces are far apart here. The earthy smell at the beginning soon turns into mild, woody forest air. The Polenz has created a picturesque valley and a wide, flat bed. Today, the stream glistens peacefully and invitingly in the morning sun. The lush green and densely overgrown rocky slopes on the north-east side are fascinating. Healthy mosses, ferns, grasses, shrubs and trees are abundantly nourished by the gently and constantly trickling water. The beautiful valley has been a nature reserve since 1940. Dippers, grey and grey wagtails, bats and butterflies feel at home here. The Marchberry meadows in the northern part of the Polenztal valley have achieved national fame. They form one of the largest wild populations of the bellflower species in the whole of Saxony. Its bloom between early March and early April attracts onlookers from near and far to the region every year.
Shortly after the historic Waltersdorfer Mühle mill with its cozy beer garden, we cross the stream and soon leave the valley in the direction of Brand. The path leads us through the Schulzengrund. The ascent is continuous but bearable. After all, there are almost 180 meters in altitude between the Polenz and the rocky plateau. When we pause briefly after about 15 minutes, we suddenly realize how unspeakably quiet it has become around us. Somewhere, far away, a blackbird sounds the alarm, the leaves rustle gently, a few insects buzz. Otherwise, absolute silence.
For city dwellers, this is a sensation. We spontaneously fall in love with this inconspicuous spot in the Elbe Sandstone Mountains. And the national park idea reveals itself to us in all its wonderful scope. Here in its core zone, we experience the national park not only as a protected area for endangered species, but also as an oasis for endangered sensations. Where the noise of progress is silenced, we can once again listen for the quiet sounds of essentiality.
Happy and satisfied, we finally arrive at the Brand, where the first day-trippers are already taking their places for lunch. Here we have another magnificent panoramic view over the Polenztal valley, which we enjoy briefly before heading back to Hohnstein. We don't feel like the hustle and bustle now. We would rather let the nature experience linger a little longer. The last part of the circular walk is a wide, paved forest path with no significant inclines. We come full circle again at the Eiche parking and bus stop.
A few days later, we learn that there are people who firmly believe that there are numerous so-called "power places" in the Elbe Sandstone Mountains, places where the "energy of the earth" is concentrated and the perception of nature is said to be particularly intense. If this is true, then we discovered some of them on our hike.