Those who head north in Antwerp discover a different side of the city: a neighborhood that has long been centered around the port but is now bursting with new life. From the Cadix district and the working-class neighborhood Den Dam to the iconic Slaughterhouse site: these are the places where Antwerp transforms its view the fastest.

Our journey through Antwerp begins at the Havenhuis, a building that instantly tells what the city is: ancient and innovative. The original fire station from 1922 was transformed into an architectural landmark by Zaha Hadid in 2016. “Here begins our story about neighborhoods that have been connected to the port since their inception,” says guide Joris De Bleser from Antwerpen SurplAce.

Along the docks, we pass a special monument: the Church Ship St. Joseph in the Houtdok. “This concrete ship was built by the Germans during WWII as a bunker ship. After the liberation in 1944, our government used it for coal storage, and in 1950 it became a church ship. Masses are still held here, and there is also a cafeteria and restaurant,” Joris tells.

Named after Cádiz

The neighborhood we walk into is called the Cadixwijk, nestled among new residential blocks, redesigned streets and the Schengenplein. “When this area was developed into a port district in the 19th century, the Spanish Cádiz was a trading partner of Antwerp. Hence the name. Other streets refer to ports like London, Genoa, Naples, or Madras.”

In the Indiëstraat lies our first stop: the Antwerp Brew Company (1). The neighborhood underwent a massive transformation. It used to be home to skippers and dockworkers, with the Kot in Cadixstraat 2 as the recruitment center for dock workers. “That’s where the job assignments were made. Since 2018, this has happened digitally, causing the orange overalls to disappear.”

On the corner is Petra’s Eethuis & Broodjeszaak, once known as Petra’s Café. “Working-class cafes next to working-class cafes used to serve beers in rhythm with the dockworkers' shifts. Today, most have disappeared,” Joris tells.

Art and Docks

We walk along the Houtdok, Kempisch dock, and Asiadok. “The Houtdok received timber from Scandinavia and Eastern Europe. The Kempisch dock was connected to the Albert Canal and the Asiadok is a reminder of trade with the Far East. In the 19th and 20th centuries, ships from all over the world were docked here. Today, the quays are much quieter.”

Over the Kempisch dock, we see ZAS Cadix, the largest hospital within the Antwerp ring, opened in 2023. “It’s a real eye-catcher: central location, vertical construction, decor, and artworks spread across the corridors. You don’t need to be a patient to visit the restaurant on the third floor. Everyone is welcome.”

We walk under the Noorderlaan bridge to Den Dam. “When Antwerp expanded its port, a lot of people moved here: dock workers, railway repairers, and butchers from the slaughterhouse. Later on, the port activities shifted northward, leading to the decline of the housing,” Joris explains.

Today, the neighborhood is thriving again. “This is the area that changes the fastest. Many families are finding their way here, a tram line has been established, new homes, a primary school, childcare, and with the opening of Park Spoor Noord in 2008, the neighborhood was revitalized.” In the park, Bar Noord (2) is the summer hotspot.

We continue to Damplein, the heart of the Damwijk. On the square, we visit Barrio Tapa & Streetfood (3). On the edge once stood Station Dam. “That monument was built in 1892 and moved thirty meters in 1907. You can see photos of that heroic work under the railway bridge. Today, it is an event location,” Joris says.

Slaughterhouse Site

Via Samberstraat, we go to Café Welkom (4), where Marieke serves a cocktail, and continue to the Slaughterhouse site, a complex where cattle used to be slaughtered. “The slaughterhouse was designed by the city architect Pieter Dens at the time, who also had a street named after him here. New street names like Twee Stierenstraat and Moeke Bitterpeeënstraat also refer to that past,” Joris explains.

This residential area of 4 hectares is undergoing drastic changes. “There is the Vetten Osplein, surrounded by newly built apartments, student housing, cafes, and restaurants. One of the former meat halls has been recently restored and houses the AP-Hogeschool.”

Our last stop is DeLuísious (5) for one last tasting. To conclude, we walk back through Park Spoor Noord, cross the Italylei via the pedestrian and bicycle bridge, and after the Londenstraat, we arrive at Kattendijkdok, where we settle down at one of the cozy terraces by the water.